Weekend in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (CO)

With jagged cliffs rising sharply from the river below, Black Canyon of the Gunnison forms a truly dramatic landscape. With its stark beauty, rich geology, and overwhelming silence, this off-the-beaten-path destination is the perfect way to experience rugged Colorado.

We visited for a weekend in late August 2024. Driving from Pueblo to Montrose was quite the road trip, and construction on the US 50 bridge didn't help (hopefully by the time you're reading this, construction efforts have ceased, but please check here). On top of that, we ended up with a pretty rainy weekend. However, we were determined to check off the last of the four Colorado National Parks and tried to make the most of it.

The park is divided into two sections: North and South Rim. While only 11 miles apart, the areas are quite literally separated by the canyon itself and driving between the two takes over 2 hours. Due to our time limit, we chose to spend our time in the South Rim since it’s more accessible and developed with paved roads, a visitor center, and nearby town amenities. We did see some really cool hikes for the North Rim though, so be sure to check that out if the backcountry appeals to you.

CAMPING

Located only a few minutes outside the South Rim area of park, we found this gem located on BLM land. I was psyched to find our closest free camping spot to date. What looked like a promising pin on the map turned out to be even better in person—a peaceful, somewhat forested area tucked away off the main road. It brought the right balance of seclusion and accessibility. We were able to car camp in our minivan, but you could easily set up a tent or bring a very small RV. According to reviews on The Dyrt, the long dirt road is rutted in some areas and best suited for high clearance vehicles, especially when it's muddy. However, we were somehow lucky enough to snag a spot right at the front so this wasn't a problem for us.

SOUTH RIM DRIVE

Stretching just over 7 miles, this winding road hugs the rim of the canyon, leading visitors to a series of 12 dramatic overlooks. Each reveals different angles of the sheer dark cliffs carved by the Gunnison River. Best of all, all of these can be reached within a short walking distance . Most are about a quarter to half a mile round trip (some even less). Spending about 2-3 hours on this road will give you all you need for great views of this park. This is ideal for those who don’t want to or can’t spend a lot of time hiking. We personally find quick stops to be a little more difficult with a baby with all the unbuckling, but we did use our infant carseat/stroller combo for some of these to make it easier on us. Keep in mind not all of the viewpoints were equipped for this and Nolan had to be carried.

Highlighted in red are a few of our favorite fews

1. Tomichi Point

2. Gunnison Point (at South Rim Visitor Center)

3. Pulpit Rock Overlook

4. Cross Fissures View

5. Rock Point

6. Devils Lookout

7. Chasm View

8. Painted Wall

9. Cedar Point Nature Trail - we skipped this

10. Dragon Point

11. Sunset View

12. High Point

Weather permitting, we ventured out as much as we could to get to each lookout point. Normally rain isn’t ideal, but to our surprise, we were rewarded with the most brilliant rainbow that made the dreary weather all worth it! It was one of the fullest ones we’ve ever seen.

EAST PORTAL ROAD

This steep and narrow winding road offers an incredible descent into the depths of one of America’s most rugged canyons. In just over a few short miles, you'll descend nearly 2,000 feet. What was supposed to be a captivating experience for us was dampened by car troubles. Our wheels started smoking, which led us into a little bit of a panic, especially being down there with no cell service and hardly any other visitors. We made it all the way down to the bottom, and luckily we were able to get our car back up safely to Montrose (we're really glad a Walmart was not too far away!). However, we really wish we had been able to enjoy the canyon floor and river a little more without worry.

If you're looking to go fishing or relish in a remote camping experience, spending time in East Portal would be a great choice. The campsites are first come first serve, with only 15 available; vehicle restrictions apply.

HIKES

There are seven designated nature trails on the South Rim, with three of them leading to the bottom of the canyon and four that go around it. The weather cleared up enough for us to do one hike on Sunday, so we chose to do one along the rim and picked the Oak Flat Trail. This moderate, 1.4 mile route through Douglas Fir and Aspen trees provided a partial decent into the canyon and striking views without having to go too deep. We were able to complete it in about an hour, and loved that it was conveniently located right down a set of stairs near the visitor center. Hunter carried Nolan in his arms the whole way without a baby carrier!

OVERALL THOUGHTS

While Black Canyon of the Gunnison is undeniably a beautiful natural wonder, we found that it didn't quite evoke the same awe as the Grand Canyon. That said, what really made this visit special was the sense of serenity and quiet that envelops the canyon. Unlike the crowds at more famous national parks, Black Canyon offered peaceful solitude, giving us a chance to appreciate the natural beauty without the noise of tourism.

However, traveling with a baby made exploring a bit trickier. With a lot of scenic viewpoints requiring us to get in and out of the car, it became a bit of a challenge to enjoy the park at a relaxed pace. If you're planning a trip here with little ones, be prepared for more stops and a slower pace, but don’t let that deter you—with tranquility and easy access to views, the Black Canyon offers its own kind of magic.

Be sure to check out Horsefly Brewing in Montrose if you're looking for good sandwiches and a nice selection of in-house brews.

Highlight Reel