Weekend in Ouray & Telluride, Colorado

Some places just stay with you — and for us, Ouray and Telluride are two of those gems. In September 2024, we packed up for a 3 day weekend escape to Colorado’s San Juan Mountains and found ourselves completely swept away by the magic of these two mountain towns. Ouray, with its cozy charm and soothing hot springs, and Telluride, framed by dramatic cliffs and classy atmosphere, made for one of our favorite getaways of all time. The sheer beauty here was just breathtaking!

CAMPING

Probably for the first time, we didn't have a perfectly curated list of designated camping spots for our 3 day adventure. We had a couple ideas, but trying to find areas we could camp for free, that were accessible for our vehicle, and close proximity to activities was a little challenging. We had to scavenge far beyond The Dyrt app to find possibilities.

We were out on our own with our little one being watched for the weekend, which meant our minivan was converted for our car camping setup. With that added flexibility, we decided we would go with our loose ideas and just try to wing it! There are ordinances in both Ouray and Telluride against sleeping in your car, so we avoided anything in city limits.

SILVERTON

On our drive from Pueblo, CO, we came through Durango (since the Gunnison bridge area was closed). Our plan was originally to make it to the highly recommended Anvil Dispersed camping spot, located only 15 minutes from the Ice Lake trailhead in Silverton. However, we ended up in a pull-off tucked away from the highway on U.S. 550. We were too tired from our long Friday night detour, and saw another car parked out there, so we decided to risk it and got out early in the morning.

TELLURIDE

A lot of people on Reddit mentioned dispersed camping on Last Dollar Road. The road begins near the Telluride Regional Airport. We saw mixed reviews for how rough the road conditions were, so we didn't want to get too far in our minivan. We ended up camping closer to the beginning of the road (although we aren't totally sure that was allowed...but we didn't see anyone else up there, and it ended up being fine).

OURAY

Our last night of camping was quite literally off the road again on US 550 between Ouray and Ridgway. We saw a lot of RVs and cars parked along the Uncompahgree River in a gravel pull-off, so we decided to join. With a deep dive into Google, I was able to find details of the exact location. We can't confirm if it's actually legal to park here, so please stay at your own risk!

Car camping without a set plan definitely had its nerve-wracking moments. Pulling off the highway in the dark, wondering if we were technically allowed to stay the night, and hoping no one would knock on our window at 2 a.m...but honestly it saved us so much money, especially in pricey spots like Ouray and Telluride. Not to mention, campgrounds there typically need well in advance reservations. The risk was worth the reward though! We didn't spend a dime on accommodations.

HIKES

• Ice and Island Lakes Trail (Silverton): Hiking the Ice and Island Lakes trail felt like the closest to heaven on Earth we've ever been. It tested our endurance with 7.3 miles of steep climbs and high altitude (~2300 ft. gain), but every step was rewarded with jaw-dropping beauty.The two vivid alpine lakes looked almost unreal with their gorgeous teal colors. In addition, we also got to see a small waterfall, sweeping mountain vistas and wildflower-filled meadows. It truly felt like walking through a living postcard. It pushed us to our limits, but the payoff? Absolutely unforgettable.

  
  

• Bridal Veil Falls (Telluride): My legs were absolutely dead the day after hiking to Ice and Island Lakes, and I felt like I was going to barely make it through this moderate trail; however, I couldn't miss out on hiking to see Colorado's tallest free-falling waterfall. Perched just beyond the charming town of Telluride, a quick 2 mile hike takes you to this dazzling formation. Along the way, you also get a glimpse at two smaller waterfalls. The main lot at the trailhead can get pretty full, so we had to park on the side of the road.

A trail still left on our bucketlist in this area is Lower, Middle, and Upper Blue Lakes.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

• Ouray Hot Springs - while this isn't your off-the-grid, wilderness-soak kind of experience, it doesn’t make it any less enjoyable. With clean, geothermally heated pools surrounded by beautiful views of the town and mountains, it was the perfect spot to unwind after a long day of hiking. The price was about $27/adult (fall 2024), and was conveniently located in downtown. There were several different pools with varying temperatures, and we saw plenty of families and couples alike. There were lots of people, but we never felt overly crowded.

  
  

• Kayaking (Ridgway) - the town of Ridgway is located directly halfway between Ouray and Telluride. We passed Ridgway State Park when driving around, and sporadically added it to our itinerary. The mountain views and large, crystal clear lake caught our eye. The self-service kayak kiosk was such a convenient way to get us out on the water. Prices were a little expensive, $20/hour per person, but it was so calm and serene. We ended up going with the tandem kayak.

• Gondola Ride (Telluride) - linking the historic towns of Telluride to Mountain Village, you can take in the beauty of the San Juans on a 10-15 minute ride for free. The three stops each open access to scenic hikes, scenic overlooks, ski/bike trails, and/or small eateries. This was such a fun little activity we stumbled upon while walking around town. We didn't have our baby with us, but according to their website, the gondolas are stroller (and wheelchair) friendly.

• Trout Lake - we only took a quick stop by to see this lake. It was a little gloomy when we went, so it didn't quite marvel us like the photos did online. There is apparently a walking path, but it's not paved, and we weren't up for another hike for something we felt "meh" about

BREWERIES & FOOD

• Ouray Brewery - located in downtown Ouray, the three‑level building includes a cozy pub on the ground floor, a broad dining area with onsite brewing gear above it, and the crown jewel: a rooftop patio boasting nearly 360° views of the San Juan Mountains and Box Canyon. We were able to snag a spot on the rooftop to enjoy some appetizers, beer, and cider. Definitely one of the more scenic breweries we've been to!

  
  

• Telluride Brewing Co - there are actually two locations in Telluride; one in Mountain Village and another one outside of downtown. We ended up visiting both, one for drinks and one for food. The location on the outskirts was a small taproom with only about 2-3 two-person tables and a few seats at the counter. There were a couple of shaded picnic areas outside across from the building where you could enjoy drinks as well. The Mountain Village location was a lot bigger and we liked that it had a small brewpub with burgers, sandwiches, etc.

  
  

• It wasn't our intention to go to both locations; we visited the taproom first, and ended up stumbling upon its second location after getting off the gondola in Mountain Village. It looked like there were quite a few good restaurants in Telluride, but to be honest, we felt very undressed for a lot of them since we only brought hiking clothes. We had no idea how classy this town could be! We felt right at home at the brewpub (and it fit our budget too).

OVERALL THOUGHTS

Ouray charmed us with its casual, laid-back, and wonderfully unpretentious energy. It was definitely more family and budget friendly. Telluride leaned more upscale, with polished storefronts, boutique lodging, and a quiet air of luxury. But both towns are surrounded by jagged peaks and alpine air so crisp it almost doesn’t feel real, like you’ve been dropped into a snowglobe… even in the middle of summer/fall. It was one of the coolest getaways we've been on.W e left each feeling like we had glimpsed a different side of Colorado’s mountain spirit.